Material List (for 34" x 22-1/2" opening)
||Curved flat spring 1/2” x 4”|
||Angle iron 3/4” x 3/4” x 1/8”|
||Copper strip 1/2” x 4” x 1/16”|
||Piano hinge 1/2” x 22” (brass, stainless)|
||Tempered glass 1/4” x 7” x 21-1/4”|
||Sheet metal strip 1-1/2” x 26 GA.|
||Right angle clamps 1/2” x 16 GA. or 1/16”|
||Flat head machine screws 1/8” x 1/4”|
||Phillips head machine screws 1/8” x 5/8” w/nuts|
||Mild steel round stock 1/4” and 1/2”|
Download Fireplace Doors Blueprint (PDF)
1. Measure and cut the angle iron at 45 degrees for all doors.
2. Assembly each door frame, make sure all corners are absolutely square and in the same plane.
3. Clamp and tack weld each corner. Check for square again and finish the welds.
4. Grind smooth any area that will hinder the sheet metal holding the glass from fitting flush against the angle iron or any part of the weld that will not allow the frames to fit snugly together at assembly.
5. Center punch and bore holes in the face of the frames that will hold the glass frame clamps. Make sure there is clearance for the glass and frame.
6. Can be primed now. Align piano hinge to edges of door frame and center punch. Bore and tap, or use self-tapping flat head screws. The heads must be countersunk for the doors to close flush.
7. Assemble hinges to frames and check to be sure all frames fit together snugly and squarely.
8. Place completed frame work in opening. C-clamp center together and determine best location. Mark hearth on both sides of hinge ends. Locate center of 1/2” circle on hearth that is equidistant from sides and ends.
9. Using masonry bit, bore 1/2” holes in hearth approx. 3/8” deep.
10. Measure depth of holes & cut a section from 1/2” round rod that will be approx. 1/8” above hearth when installed or what will allow smooth folding of doors.
11. Locate center of flat ends of cut rod and bore holes thru them for 1/4” pins.
12. Center these bearings on bottom of hinge ends in line with side edge of door & mark center of hole.
13. Center punch and bore 1/4” hole thru 3/4” frame. (both ends)
14. Repeat steps 12 and 13 for tops of hinge doors.
15. Cut 2 pieces 1” long from 16d nail. Bend one end of each approx. 1/4” from end at 45 deg.
16. Weld other ends to bottom inside vertical edge of center doors so that it doesn’t drag on 3/4 angle behind doors and doesn’t interfere with flush closing of doors.
17. This step can be eliminated if one wishes to attach the glass directly to the door frames. This will result in greater glass breakage however. Otherwise, measure and cut the 26 GA. 1-1/2” metal strips to length. Form a “U” that will snugly slip over the edge of the glass-trim with aviation snips to form matching 45 deg. angles each piece.
18. Cut 24 1-1/4” pieces from 1/2” wide by 16 GA. or 1/16” stock & bend at right angles-one side being the same length or slightly less than the thickness of the sheet metal trim around glass.
19. Center punch and bore 1/8” hole thru other side so that the bolts thru face of frames will line up with edge of sheet metal holding glass.
20. Cut 4 pieces approx. 3/8” long from 1/4” mild round stock (or could use soft bolt)
21. Place all four frames in opening. C-clamp together at center & put a 1/4” pin in each hole on bottom fitting it into the hole in bearing (you may have to place a spacer under pin to it will extend up in to the door frame).
22. Plumb face of doors and hold in place. Use lipstick or other marking paint on end of other pins and push thru top holes to mark holes in angle holding masonry. Center punch and drill holes for 1/4” pins.
23. Place pins thru upper holes into pivot holes. Tack weld or otherwise support while releasing C-clamp at center and checking operation of doors. Adjustment may be necessary.
24. If doors fold OK, tack weld each pin inside door frame.
25. Cut length of 3/4 angle to match width of opening. Both top and bottom.
26. Close doors-align 3/4 angle with top inside of doors. Drill and attach as necessary.
27. Attach spring strip to bottom 3/4 angle at center either with a machine screw thru hole punched thru spring or if unable to do that use wire to pull a depression in the spring so that it will remain in place when doors are closed. If a wire is used, two small holes will have to be drilled thru the 3/4 angle and the wire anchored in front.
28. Bend copper strips to form handles-turn under approx. 1/2” on each end for attaching. Attach with blind rivets. Be sure that the rivet will not interfere with glass.
29. Install glass using clamps made (item 19).
30. Install decorative strips (should be a right angle to hide both edge of folding door and to allow area to force rock wool behind to make it more air tight).
31. If desired, tightly clamp doors at upper center and bore hole between for damper control shaft and finish painting. Both should be done BEFORE installing glass.
It is important to use enough ventilation to keep the fumes and gases from your breathing zone. For occasional welding in a large room with good cross-ventilation, natural ventilation may be adequate if you keep your head out of the welding fumes. However, be aware that strong drafts directed at the welding arc may blow away the shielding gas and affect the quality of your weld. In planning your workshop ventilation, it is preferable to use ventilation that pulls fume from the work area rather than blows necessary shielding gas away.
Remember, electric shock can kill. Wear dry, hole-free leather gloves when you weld. Never touch the electrode or work with bare hands when the welder is on. Be sure you are properly insulated from live electrical parts, such as the electrode and the welding table when the work clamp is attached. Be sure you and your work area stay dry; never weld when you or your clothing is wet. Be sure your welding equipment is turned off when not in use. Note that Lincoln wire feed / welders have a relatively low open circuit voltage and include an internal contactor that keeps the welding electrode electrically 'cold' until the gun trigger is pressed. These important safety features reduce your risk of electric shock during any welding project.
It is essential that your eyes are protected from the welding arc. Infrared radiation has been known to cause retinal burning. Even brief unprotected exposure can cause eye burn known as 'welder's flash'. Normally, welder's flash is temporary, but it can cause extreme discomfort. Prolonged exposure can lead to permanent injury.
Workspace - Protection from Sparks
Before you get started on any welding project, it is important that you make sure your work area is free of trash, sawdust, paint, aerosol cans and any other flammable materials. A minimum five-foot radius around the arc, free of flammable liquids or other materials, is recommended. Extra care should be taken in workshops that are primarily used for woodworking as sawdust can collect inside machines and in other hard to clean spaces. If a spark finds its way into one of these sawdust crannies, the results could be disastrous. If your shop area is too small to allow for a safe radius, please use an alternate area like a garage or driveway.
Cylinders can explode if damaged. Always keep your shielding gas cylinder upright and secured. Never allow the welding electrode to touch the cylinder.
It is also imperative to make sure you have all the necessary safety equipment and that you're wearing welding friendly clothes. You should wear:
Welding gloves - dry and in good condition
Safety glasses with side shields
Protective welding shield with a dark lens shade appropriate for the type of welding you do
Head protection - like a fire retardant cotton or leather cap
Long-sleeve cotton shirt
Long cotton pants
Leather work boots
A fire extinguisher should also be on hand during any welding. Also, make certain no children are in the area when you are welding. They may watch the arc and can experience retinal damage from its intense light. There is also a risk of a child getting burned by welding spatter.
Finally, see the instruction manual for your welder for added safety information.